Sunday, November 29, 2009

Synagogues and Churches

So much for a one day break from blogging about my travels...more like a week. Oh well, these things happen.
Back to travels. After our day in Delhi we headed down to Kerala. I've been there before and was more than happy to go back as I had such a great time the first time. This trip began much like the last one by touching down in Cochin (or Kochi); we checked into our hotel and then headed down to Old Cochin. In addition to the fact that I had enjoyed my first visit to Cochin, I was excited to go back for one very specific reason...the first time I was there was a Friday and the synagogue was closed and according to my guide books this synagogue was well worth a visit.
So we strolled through the lovely colorful Jew town with all its little tourist shops to the little synagogue. It was built in the 16th century and is quite small; a large room really. The floor is made up of all hand painted tiles from China; there is a very ornate pulpit and some really amazing lamps including one really big chandelier. Standing there you can imagine people a few hundred years ago worshipping by oil lamps; it is like a little time capsule.
You couldn't take photos inside; a bummer for the tourist in me; but it did help to maintain the feeling of a place of worship rather than a tourist spot. Interestingly you had to take your shoes off to enter; I think that is a spill over of the Indian influence and how Hindus worship.
After the synagogue we visited the great big Chinese fishing nets which were not in use; apparently they are only used during high tide, or low tide, basically the tide that brings all the fish in. But more on fish later...
On my previous trip to Cochin I also missed out on seeing the interior of the Church of St. Francis. It closes at 5 p.m. and we got there a bit after 5 but got in this time...one of those few times that Indians always doing things late has worked to my advantage. The church is also from the 16th century and had a quite simple interior. We were most fascinated by these things hanging down along the length of the pews; they were long, maybe 10 feet, and were made of wood with a bit of fabric over them. They hung about 6 feet over the pews but looked like they could be lowered so we thought maybe they were to divide men and women.
Turns out they were the original fans in the church; so during mass (in the times before electricity) some poor folks would stand outside pulling those ropes back and forth to help keep people cool inside. Quite smart really as it stays hot year round down there and I cannot imagine how stuffy that church would get during the really humid months.
Now they have regular fans...I wonder if they use the old ones during power outages?
Back to fish; well the nets weren't in use but the fishermen were bringing in their catch from their boats and the market was being set up so we saw all sorts of fish being brought in. Since I couldn't take photos in the synagogue or church I'll leave you today with a photo of one of the men carrying some huge fish near the market place. I cannot even imagine how heavy this basket must be.

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